The following steps allowed me to use my X11 session at IMSc from TIFR with quite good interactive feel (surprised no? The time is now 07:53:16 IST ... there is one hour to internet choking time ... you had best start wrapping this up!)
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Run "ssh as82 x11vnc". Providing you have a password setup for VNC this will take your existing X11 session on as82 and export it via vnc. It will also give you the number of the port to connect to. ("as82" is my desktop machine at IMSc).
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Run "ssh -f -N -L 5901:localhost:${PORT} as82". This will allow you to connect from the local VNC viewer at at port 5901 on the local machine.
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Run "xvncviewer :1" on the local machine. You may need to fine tune the parameters of the running VNC via the F8 key---for example to get a full (24bit) color display.